Sunday, 7 April 2013

Red Salad

Years ago, my lovely Aunt Flora celebrated her 50th birthday with a party at their house in Kentish Town in London. Her oldest son, my cousin Matthew, brought along his Russian girlfriend to help at the party. She was one of quite a long line of beautiful Russian girls he dated, and I cannot now remember her name. But I have never forgotten the salad dish she made for the party. It was beautiful to look at, and utterly delicious to eat. It had in it beetroot, potato and herring.... It was a revelation, so simple and yet so rich and fulfilling.
As the years went by, I tried in a desultory way to find a recipe for this Proustian delight, but Russian cookery books were not that thick on the ground.
Now we not only have the internet and astonishingly efficient search engines, we also have Russian foodstalls in local markets.  I find this same salad - or something very very similar - for sale just up the road from my house, once a week.  It's called Shuba.
I decided to try making it myself. Not difficult, and absolutely satisfying. I served it at a supper party last night - with two gourmet couples as guests - and they loved it. Ha! a hit!
So - I recommend you try this out...
There are various different ways of making this, derived no doubt from widespread family traditions. But - you boil a few potatoes, carrots and beetroot, and let them get cold.
You peel and 'shred' or grate or mash them separately - keep them in separate bowls for now.
You take some sweet-pickled herring fillets and chop them finely, and you do the same to a medium sized onion.
Hard boil a couple of eggs, then when they're cool, crush them into small crumbs.
Have a goodly amount of mayonnaise to hand.
Then - layer these various things with care onto a serving dish, starting perhaps with the potatoes, and finishing with the gleaming beetroot.  Add some salt and pepper as you go. That's it. Simple.
When you've constructed it, put it in the fridge to chill for an hour or two.
It makes a fine filling dish and very impressive to look at.
Sorry this is not a great photo - captured at the last minute.