It seems the seas have cooled down at last, so winter fish are in. We usually buy ours from Blue at Oare. Smelt are delicate little fish, once used just for garnishing grander species on the plate, or indeed just as bait. But they are so delicious, so pretty, and so fragrant when fresh it's a shame not to snap them up.
They have a slightly greenish tinge, and quite remarkably smell of cucumbers. A common way of cooking them is to dip in milk, dredge in flour and then gently fry them.
You can go on to marinade them in the oil with added fried carrot, garlic and celery, with a light vinegar - that is called an escabeche.
You may want to clean their tummies out before you cook them, but it can be done on the plate and it is a bit fiddly but worth it. The flesh is sweet and with an elusive flavour.
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